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General Tech Learning Aids/Tools 2 years ago
Posted on 16 Aug 2022, this text provides information on Learning Aids/Tools related to General Tech. Please note that while accuracy is prioritized, the data presented might not be entirely correct or up-to-date. This information is offered for general knowledge and informational purposes only, and should not be considered as a substitute for professional advice.
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I was reflecting on how different disciplines of climbing help you become a stronger climber in other disciplines. Like how bouldering makes you a better sport climber, because it teaches you beta and helps you develop the strength you need to get you through the hard cruxes of a sport route. And how sport climbing makes you a stronger trad climber by giving you the endurance from climbing longer routes, while letting you climb near or at your limit safely while on fixed protection.
Getting into trad climbing is where you make a huge transition from juicing though routes to learning how to route find, place protection, find good belay points and set up bomber anchors. As a sport climber you don't have to commit much brain power into following a route or placing anchors, it's like connect the dots, you just follow the bolts, and clip in your draws until you find the next belay station. Trad climbing requires a lot more specialized gear, a lot more knowledge and a lot more route finding skills.
Being a strong climber isn't good enough for trad climbing, you need to be a wise climber. Most people learn to trad climb I think by following a good leader. You climb with someone who has a lot of wisdom, and you get to clean all the gear they place, which gives you an opportunity to see what they use and how they use it.
Given that aid climbers get a lot more use out of their gear, place way more pro and get a lot more practical experience with it, would it benefit some one getting into trad climbing to first try out aid climbing to to give them more experience with their gear and make them better at placing solid pro?
Before I started to trad climb, I was using mobile protection in an alpine environment. As a consequence, I never fell into a piece of gear and belays (that were not bolted) were save by location, often by slinging some big rock. This is the extreme case, but also when starting to trad climb the same happened: I didn't have much experience so I wasn't sure about my placement. This meant I could not go to my limit which made it boring fast. Then I went to training weekends where we set up top anchors from which we were loosely belayed while trad leading. The deal was: Every placement is tested by jumping into it. This is more or less save, at least as long as you don't look up while falling (one helmet was cracked by a cam :) ).
The big advantage of this method over aid climbing is that you actually fall into your gear. As to the reports of a friend, which is a lot into aid, you don't want to fall in aid climbing. Falls get messy all the time and many aid placements can just sustain body weight, they will fail in case of a fall. On the other hand you will place a ton of gear when aiding, so you get a very good eye for placements. This helps you a lot in trad: One hugely challenging aspect is, that in trad you are concentrating on climbing, but still have to find protection places. The friend with lots of aiding experience does this almost automatically and seems to always choose the right gear on the first try. This saves vital time.
In conclusion I would say that for getting proficient in placing gear, aid climbing is great. But it does not give you that much information on the quality of your placements. Aid placements are usually "only" loaded by bodyweight, while trad placements always need to sustain high loads in case of a fall. For getting better at judging placement for high forces and getting confidence, go jump into your gear while being on a backup belay. Just be prepared for flying gear and for damaging some of the gear - but the result is well worth it.
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